I went to the winter sun destination that is a ‘modern fairytale’ with new hotels and historical attractions

ARRIVING in Dubai is like stepping into a modern fairytale.

At first glance it can be an overwhelming mosaic of shiny skyscrapers — a playground for the rich and famous.

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But there is history and culture to dive into if you know where to look.

On the waterfront in the ­oldest part of the city, called Deira, Mercure has opened a new hotel, with rooms from £53 per night.

From its rooftop pool, you can see in the distance the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world.

But you’ll be too busy exploring Deira’s vibrant surroundings to go and see it up close.

Set on the northern shores of the Dubai Creek, where traders from around the world have flocked for hundreds of years, Deira has bustling souks, an historical centre and a series of new museums and attractions.

And while just a few decades ago many Emiratis lived in tents in the desert, now they inhabit sprawling palaces — one of which is to be found just down the road from the hotel.

An open-top bus tour drops dazzled visitors outside Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum’s stunning Zabeel Palace.

It stands proudly to the west of the Creek behind landscaped lawns bordered by “lollipop trees” and marble pathways.

Driving around, you see ­striking examples of modern architecture, too.

We’re told new attractions are built here every two years or so to draw visitors back.

The latest is the gargantuan gold Frame, which is exactly as described — a 500ft-high metallic rectangle which has been built on the side of the D78 highway at the point where old and new Dubai meet.

Visitors can take a lift up one leg of the Frame, walk along the top of it, and down the other side.

Each leg shares the story of how Dubai became what it is today — and the Sheikh’s plans for its future.

In the nearby Al Fahidi Historical District, close to the foreign embassies and the peaceful royal graveyard, the regeneration is visible everywhere.

Traditional coral-stone houses have been restored to how the area would have looked when Emirati royalty lived in them decades ago.

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To keep our energy up for the souks, we stopped off for coffee at the Arabian Tea House, and enjoyed a light snack of dates dipped in peanut sauce, paired with the most delicious ­cardamom-flavoured coffee.

The markets on either side of the Creek are an explosion of sights and smells and can be reached by abra — local red boats that criss-cross the water.

At the spice souk, the air is heavy with aromas of saffron and perfume oils, and ­merchants whisper about fake designer handbags.

My haggling skills were not quite up to par, as I had no idea what a fair price was.

So, going with an experienced local who knows the ropes is helpful.

I was grateful to my guide Cybelle who got me a fantastic price on cinnamon, turmeric, cardamom and baclava — all for less than a tenner.

Biggest gold ring

She encouraged me to haggle, saying the rules are simple in Dubai: “Respect the laws and you’ll be fine, break the laws and you’ll get a fine!”

Window-shopping around the gold souk next door is a must, if only to see the world’s biggest gold ring.

That night, I ordered an Uber to Kite Beach for an early ­evening swim.

It was still busy with families watching the ­sunset and locals playing ­basketball.

I’m later told Dubai’s rulers encourage fitness through offering free activities such as yoga, Pilates and Zumba classes. The annual Dubai Run saw 100,000 people participate.

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The mix of old and new Dubai continues at Mercure’s Farmstead restaurant.

It offers continental breakfast as well as local dishes such as shanklish cheese, shakshouka — poached egg in a spicy tomato sauce — and ful medames, a bean stew with onion and ­peppers.

Meanwhile, at the Mercure’s Blue Panda restaurant, dinner was served on an edible plate and drinks arrived in hollowed-out oranges and cucumbers.

After a few days in Dubai, I learned the transformation of the city is something locals and settlers take immense pride in.

Now I can’t wait to return, to see more extraordinary changes, in two years’ time.